The Hearth & Patio Shoppe

227 South 8th Street ~ Opelika, AL 36801

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Gas Logs - General

Q: Please give me the pros & cons for AGA vented logs. What is the BTU output and is a heat deflector needed to protect the mantel?: A: AGA Vented gas logs give you the look of a vented gas log set. The output of this log set (and vented sets) is determined by the fireplace it is installed in. A heat deflector is not needed on AGA Vented Gas Logs.
Q:Do you suggest having a carbon monoxide (CO) detector installed when using gas logs?: A:Yes, I believe that you should have a carbon monoxide detector installed in every building that has a combustion appliance. A combustion appliance is any appliance with a flame. These include: gas furnace, gas hot water heater, wood fireplace, gas fireplace, vented and vent free gas logs, gas stove, gas range, gas dryer, and most importantly, if there is an adjoining garage with an automobile. Follow the manufacturers instructions for mounting. I personally prefer the digital readout CO detector by Nighthawk. We carry them at our retail store.
Q: I got my logs put in. My question is how can I repaint the inside of the fireplace to a desirable color? Do I have to use a special paint or will the gas logs not make it hot enough to matter?: A: Please be aware that with vent free gas logs (if you choose that route) cannot have the firebox painted. The vent free logs heat the paint higher than the 1200 degree F. limit. This will make the paint carry through the house with the air currents and deposit the paint residue on everything. Vented gas logs do not have this problem due to the lower temperatures and the exhaust gases going to the atmosphere.
Q: I would like to be able to use gas logs for decoration as well as a source for heat, and it seems that the unvented type would work the best although I am concerned about the claim that the fire isn't as realistic.... if I opened the damper slightly would the fire become more realistic dependent upon how far I opened the vent or is it a design difference between the vented and un vented logs themselves?: A: The fire on the Peterson pages are accurate as to what to expect from both vented and vent free. Damper position would not help flame pattern, that is the limitations on burner and cleanliness required by the product safety listing. Opening the damper will lower the heat output for those days when full heat is not wanted.
Q: I have a center chimney with three working fireplaces....could I still burn wood in the kitchen fireplace either while the gas logs were burning or not?: A: Gas and wood cannot be mixed in the same flue. But can be in the same chimney. Unless chimney is over 75 years old or not built to code, you will not have a problem. If you have one hole coming out the top of your chimney for all three fireplaces, then you have a problem, if you have three (which I suspect), then you have no problem, if unsure, call our certified chimney sweep to do an inspection.
Q: Can you please tell me the best place to put my CO detector? I have a two-story house, bedrooms on the second floor, gas furnace, water heater and dryer in the basement, gas range on the first floor, and will soon have gas logs on the first floor as well. Right now the CO detector is next to my bed, sort of by default.: A: In my opinion, it should be a digital readout Nighthawk placed at eye level. CO has a .97 specific gravity so it mixes floor to ceiling well with air currents, but I feel you will look at it more at eye level. As far as placement in the house. I recommend one on each level. Read owners manual as far as what not to place it close to, like the furnace.
Q: Can someone tell me what types of heat gives off carbon monoxide? Gas &- oil. - yes, electric no, wood??? Thanks: A: Carbon monoxide is given off when incomplete combustion takes place. Combustion appliances (or vehicles) can be fueled by: gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, LP gas also known as propane, natural gas, oil, wood, alcohol, and the like. If there is a flame present, carbon monoxide is possible if combustion is not complete.
Q: I recently moved into a house that appears to have vented gas logs. The fireplace has a chimney so I assume the gas logs are vented. 1. Is there a way to be sure of what I have? 2. If my current gas log set is vented could I replace the vented gas logs with vent free gas logs? If so, do I need to do anything special?: A: Vent free gas logs will have tags or metal plates attached to them for identification. If your gas log set does not have tags, it is probably a vented set. If you wanted to swap to vent free, you would remove your old vented set and replace it with a vent free burner and logs for that burner. There are no parts that would swap from the vented to the vent free set.
Q: What sized gas line should I run for gas logs?: A: The size of the gas line varies by the BTUs needed for the gas log set and the distance of the gas line run. It also varies by fuel, propane verses natural. We suggest hiring an NFI gas certified technician or certified gas fitter.
Q: What are the specific functional differences between vented and non-vented sets ?: A: Vented have a better looking flame and consumes more gas (90,000+- BTUH) vent-free heats approximately 800 square feet and consume up to 40,000 BTUH. But the flame does not look as good. Great looks and low heat or good looks and great heat, that is the question!
Q: I have a wood fireplace and want to buy gas logs, I was told that the gas line has to down the chimney through the damper to the logs. I was wondering if is this a proper way to do it?: A: No it is not right. Never run the gas line into a high heat area. Go find another installer that can run the gas line out at the floor of the fireplace where is should be. Be sure to get a building permit if required and have it inspected. Follow all manufacturers instructions.
Q: Can we run the gas line to our fireplace and install gas logs ourselves, or do we need a professional to do that?: A: Even though detailed instructions come with the log set, it is our policy to only recommend professional installation.
Q: I have gas logs and was told to keep the glass doors open while the thing was on.....is that right?: A: Yes, your glass doors must stay open while the gas logs are burning. You can close them immediately after turning them off.
Q: I have a Peterson gas log set. There are small hairline cracks in a log. I was wondering if this is a problem? Do we need to watch it for the cracks getting bigger. The man that installed the logs told us how to temper the set on a low heat.: A: The cracks do not pose a problem. However, your logs are warranted for life. Peterson is a great company, they don't want you to have broken logs in your fireplace.
Q: Should I open the damper when the gas logs are used ?: A: If vented, the fireplace damper must stay fully open when in use. This is the same position used with a wood fire. Vent free gas logs on the other hand are different. The damper can be fully closed letting all the heat into the room. The damper can also be used to regulate the amount of heat produced into the room. In other words you can open the damper to let some or most of the heat go up the chimney when you want to use it as a decorative log set.
Q: I have a wood stove. Can I install gas logs in this unit if the firebox of the stove meet the minimum requirements of the gas log installation requirements.: A: No. Gas logs can only be used in open front fireplaces. To put one in a closed combustion wood stove would be an explosion hazard. The flames could go out due to lack of air. When door is opened to see what is wrong - air goes in to ignite the raw gas. There goes the house and maybe the neighbors. Serious matter. Do not do it.
Q: I have a gas log set in a fireplace originally built for wood. The fire goes out. It burns fine for less than one hour. Why does the fire go out? The pilot light also goes out. Should I use a grate to hold the logs? Should I use lava rock (the product sold for grills)?: A: If the fire goes out within 10 minutes, then the thermocouple is cooling off too much when the logs are started. The solution is to increase the pilot flame adjustment. If it will not adjust higher, replace the thermocouple. If too small a gas line is installed, it will also cause this and would have to be increased to solve your problem. If the log set burns more then 20 minutes and then goes out, it is from overheating. Is there 3" between the valve and the side of the firebox? Is the shield on the gas valve? The thermocouple could be placed wrong thereby heating the cold junction on the thermocouple. You should use the grate that came with the log set. You should use only accessories for the log set, nothing for a grill.
Q: Is it possible to burn BOTH wood and gas in a "standard" fireplace insert or is that a No, No ?: A: It is a No, No!!! Let me explain. A wood stove is a controlled combustion product. This means air is restricted to increase burn time. This cannot be done on a gas appliance, a air starved gas appliance does not burn properly. It is possible to starve the appliance of air to the point combustion that the fire goes out. Then when the door is opened to check it, air rushes in, kaboom. It is an explosion hazard and should not be attempted.
Q: We don't have natural gas out where I live, so everything's electric. Everything stays warm, though, and I only use the fireplace for ambience and maybe some light-duty toe warming. Firewood is a mess, though. It soots up everything (the fireplace hearth and surround are snow white imitation marble), and is a pain to clean up. Since the fireplace backs up to the garage, I'm wondering if I could switch to artificial gas logs and run a line through the wall to a BBQ-type propane tank in the garage. Just a standard 20 pound tank. Would this work, or is it a stupid idea?: A: First, a smoking fireplace with wood is still a smoking fireplace with gas logs, it will not cure your problem. Second, Propane cylinders are not allowed indoors, even a garage. Third, is set of gas logs consuming 90,000 BTU per hour of gas would burn on the gas grill cylinder for only 4.8 hours. See this FAQ on smoking fireplaces. Let's get your fireplace to stop smoking, then choose which fuel you want to burn in your fireplace.

Gas Logs - Vent Free

Q: I've had unvented gas logs for about five years. Same room, same fireplace. I re-lit the pilot light this fall. It burned fine. The next day we noticed the pilot light was off. I shut them off, the pilot light stayed on. For a few minutes. What can be causing this?: A: The pilot on a vent free is part of the ODS assembly. Yours is just dirty. Take a can of compressed air and blow the dust out. The pilot must be OFF. The ODS is where the pilot flame comes out. Go to the back of the ODS, you will see one or two holes, blow the compressed air in there. Then blow down the barrel of the ODS.
Q: What building code groups permit the installation of listed vent free gas products?: A: National Fire Protection Association (NFPA-54), Building Officials and Code Administrators (BOCA), Southern Building Code Congress International (SBCCI), Council of American Building Officials (CABO), Both the International Mechanical Code (IMC) and International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC) permit the installation of listed and labeled vent free gas products and specify that the product be used as a supplemental heating source. Answer provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Q: How does vent free gas logs affect indoor air quality?: A: Safe Indoor Air Quality. Extensive independent testing has verified that vent free gas appliances meet or exceed the nationally recognized guidelines for indoor air quality, even for the sensitive populations, such as children, pregnant women, and the elderly. Vent free products are tested by independent appliance testing laboratories to assure they comply with ANSI Z21.11.2, a standard established under the auspices of the American National Standards Institute. This standard is maintained by a committee whose members include utilities, manufacturers, government agencies, code officials, and consultants. The committee has removed from the standard all language concerning sensitive populations because of vent free products' excellent health and safety record over the past twenty years. Answer provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002. Assertion: There are concerns about Carbon Monoxide (CO) emissions from vent-free appliances, especially in households with children, pregnant women, and elderly people. Fact: The effects of vent-free products' emissions on sensitive populations were tested in the extensive independent study. This research used as its criteria the recommended maximum levels of CO as set by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), with sensitive populations - such as children, pregnant women and the elderly - as the benchmark. The results of the research proved that vent-free gas heating products preformed well within the CPSC guidelines for Carbon Monoxide and all other indoor air quality guidelines by OHSA, NIOSH and ASHRAE. Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002. Assertion: There is nothing to prevent a thrifty homeowner from using a vent-free gas heater as a sold heat source. Fact: Surprisingly, there are homeowners who improperly use even their cooking ranges as a sole heat source. The fact is, consumers must be informed on how to use any new gas appliance in the home. All major building codes categorize vent-free products for supplemental use and require that a primary source of heat (e.g., a furnace) be present in the home before a vent-free product can be installed. It is clearly stated in the operating instructions of every vent-free appliance that vent-free gas products are only to be used for supplemental heating. Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002. Assertion: If a customer buys a vent-free gas appliance, it is necessary to purchase a quality Carbon Monoxide detector as well. Fact: All homes, whether their energy source is electric, gas, wood, or oil, should have a listed Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector. Primary sources of CO concern are automobiles, indoor grilling on hibachis, and gas appliances that have not been properly maintained. The independent research study on vent-free products concluded after extensive testing that CO emissions from vent-free gas products are well within nationally recognized indoor air quality guidelines, even for sensitive populations. Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002. Assertion: Ceiling fans should not be installed in rooms with vent-free fireplaces. Fact: Ceiling fans may be used to help distribute heat, however, fans should not be allowed to blow directly into the fireplace to avoid drafts that alter burner flame patterns, which can result in sooting. Fact provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002.
Q: Do vent free gas appliances produce water?: A: Some people may be surprised to learn that vent-free appliances produce water. This occurs naturally by burning a combination of gas and air. The water is in the form of a vapor rather than a liquid. You can't see it with your eyes. During cold months of the year, the relative humidity - the percentage of water vapor in the air - is low. You've probably experienced a scratchy throat caused by the dryness inside a home during the winter. Health studies have shown that increasing the indoor relative humidity results in a reduction of respiratory illnesses. AHAM, the trade association for the humidifier industry, recommends a 60% indoor relative humidity. Answer provided by the Vent-Free Products Alliance Brochure - 2002. Note: To obtain a copy of the referenced brochure, contact the Vent-Free Gas Products Alliance at mscsmitty@cs.com and ask for "Ten Million Reasons To Build In Vent-Free Gas Products - Builder and Remodeler Guide to Vent-Free Supplementary Gas Heating Appliances - 2002.
Q: We would like to purchase a set of non-vented firelogs to use with our Heatilator fireplace insert. What we need to know is: a. Can the non-vented firelogs be used with a Heatilator insert? We have gotten conflicting information on whether this is safe to do or not.: A: The question is due to the terminology. A "Heatilator" is a masonry fireplace form with an open front. An "insert" is a wood burning stove inserted into a fireplace. It has air tight doors and could pose an explosion hazard if gas logs were used. If you have an open front fireplace, capable of burning wood, you can use vented gas logs. The Heatilator company does not allow vent free gas logs in their prefab fireplaces.
Q: We are on a Propane fuel system. What brands and models of gas logs would you recommend?: A: All of mine are fine for propane. Be sure to specify when ordering so the right gas valve and burner will be ordered. You must use the safety pilot option on propane (LP) gas.
Q: If I buy a vent-free set of gas logs in the ceramic fiber material, can I add some fiber looking embers and pinecones, etc. at my discretion. Or if I have an old set can I place an old log just on the hearth floor for added realism?: A: You cannot alter or add to the log set in any way. To do so could cause carbon monoxide. These type of materials can be used around the outside of the log set for decoration, but not on the set.
Q: Are the unvented gas fireplaces safe? We are planning a new home and they certainly look attractive but I just feel very uncomfortable not venting combustion products. Besides the safety factor, I would appreciate other comments on how well they work, etc. I really want a wood stove (we had one 20 years ago) but my wife doesn't like the mess. I have to admit that the convenience of gas (over wood) sure makes them look attractive.: A: All of the vent free fireplaces meet AGA (American Gas Association) approval. There are several factors involved. Vent free gas log put out a lot of heat. This may mean you cannot run your logs for long periods due to the heat output. A vented fireplace with vent free gas logs makes more sense to me. Then, your future options are endless. You could change to wood (you said you like a real fire), you may want to go with the very realistic vented gas logs. If roof venting is not possible, take a look at direct vent units. The flue gasses go out the back through a horizontal flue, the combustion air is pulled around this pipe. This makes the unit sealed from the outdoors. It works very well in tight houses and is approved in bedrooms in many areas.
Q: If one uses a vent-free gas log in a fireplace during a power outage in the winter with the chimney flue closed as recommended, what protects the household from CO buildup and poisoning?: A: The ODS (Oxygen Depletion Devise) does not require power to operate. It will shut off the gas to the appliance when the oxygen in the room drops from 20.9% to 18%. This is a long ways from harmful levels of CO.
Q: Why are vent free gas logs not allowed in a bedroom? Why? I thought they were "safe" to use anywhere.: A: We now have a unit that can be installed in a bedroom. Click here: http://www.rhpeterson.com/realfyre/homerf4.html and look at the G8 series. The new AGA (American Gas Association) standard allows for a few approved vent free units to be placed in bedrooms. They must produce less than 10,000 BTUs. Check your local building code.
Q: I am interested in gas logs for my fireplace, and think I would like the vent free kind to prevent heat loss up the chimney. I don't understand how they can be unvented and not present a carbon monoxide problem. Can you clear this up for me?: A: Vent free gas appliances have an ODS (oxygen depletion sensor). If the oxygen level drops to a 18% level (from a normal of 20.9%), the set shuts down. The vent free gas logs use the same technology as the vent free wall space heaters that have been around for several years. Do they produce CO (Carbon Monoxide)? The answer is yes, they produce trace amounts. Ours sets produce about 9.5 PPM (parts per million). the AGA code for vent free gas heaters and logs is 20PPM. A gas range is 400PPM. And a cigarette is 800PPM. So yes they do, but not a harmful level. Note on safety, there has never been a fatality with a gas appliance due to a faulty ODS and there are more than 10 million operating in the United States and more than 50 million in use world wide.
Q: I have heard that vent free gas logs produce water. Is this true?: A: Vent free gas logs produce one quart of water per hour on high. You can crack the damper to let it out the chimney. Most houses like the additional water, but it can become a problem in very well insulated houses. A de-humidifier will take care of it (needed less than 1% of the time).
Q: I have heard that a hood must me used on vent free gas logs. Can you elaborate on the requirements of this hood, like how big and where to put it?: A: The hood is used if the mantle is too close and could overheat. Most of the time it is needed if the mantle is closer than 28" to the firebox opening. It also matters how far out the mantle extends. The less it extends the closer to the firebox opening it can be. The hood is about 4" wide and is available in black or polished brass. The hood goes at the top of the firebox opening. Call or visit us if you need a hood.
Q: I have odors coming from our vent free gas logs. Each time we've noticed the odor, it has been while paint has been being applied to the wall. All we can figure is that the vapors from this stuff interact in some way with the gas generated fire and that reaction causes a pretty stinky odor. Any of that sound reasonable?: A: You are correct. The flame processes all impurities in the air. Other items that smell when processed: pet hair, carpet fiber, extreme dust, paint, soot inside firebox, etc.
Q: Is there any maintenance on vent free gas logs that needs to be done on a regular basis?: A: Maintenance for the most part can be done yourself. Just good housekeeping! Take the logs off the burner. Take a brush (1-2" paint brush with all but 1/2" of the bristles taped up works good) and clean the burner ports. Clean the air intake. Clean everywhere that there is dust, pet hair, carpet fuzz, etc. There should be no soot on the burner at all. Make sure that nothing has changed with the set. Like extra logs or pine cones, or the logs positioned wrong. The pilot on a vent free is part of the ODS assembly. It gets dirty over time. Take a can of compressed air and blow the dust out. The pilot must be OFF. The ODS is where the pilot flame comes out. Go to the back of the ODS, you will see one or two holes, blow the compressed air in there. Then blow down the barrel of the ODS. Read over the installation instructions again and be sure everything is correct. Or call a gas fitter to perform the maintenance and perform a CO test.
Q: Are vent free gas logs legal in all states?: A: They are not legal in all states. California does not allow them at all. Other states have different restrictions. Some states do not allow them in commercial buildings. Nationwide they are not allowed in recreational vehicles. Check with your local building code official, ask him what restrictions, if any, are placed on "vent free gas space heaters". Your answer will be the same whether you are installing : a vent free wall hung gas space heater, a vent free gas stove, or vent free gas logs.
Q: I just bought an old house and the fireplace hadn't been used in years. I called a chimney sweep (who's also a firefighter) to clean it for me. He said there was no point because it's an old "Shaker coal firebox" and the chimney's all full of junk (bird's nests and stuff). So, I said, "OK, I'll just put in a vent-free decorative gas log set." He said, "Don't do that. It must be vented." I said, "V-e-n-t-f-r-e-e. That means, no venting needed." He said, "I wouldn't do that." I don't want to kill my family, but I he couldn't explain what the concern is. I've read all about ODS sensors and stuff. Is there anything to worry about if I just seal off the fireplace and put the vent-free unit in? Oh, also, the firefighter was very concerned about the distance from the firebox to the mantle. It is very short, say 6-10 inches. Is that a problem? Would a fireplace hood be appropriate?: A: I sounds as if your chimney sweep was not certified. He does not appear trained in servicing fireplaces. "Birds nests and stuff" - The chimney swifts nest is so small it can fit in the palm of your hand. They pose no fire hazard. "Stuff", I can only guess! Gas logs, both vented and vent-free require a working wood burning fireplace. The mantle could be a problem, even with a hood. If your fireplace is unsafe for a wood fire, it is unsafe for a gas fire. Call a certified sweep and let someone qualified and trained inspect your fireplace.
Q: Now, explain to me why on earth you'd need a working fireplace with a vent free system? Do you see the obvious confusion I have? You guys even sell mantles that you just push against the wall and then put the logs in there. I mean, maybe my dumbness is caused by not understanding what "working" means. Is the fake fireplace setup called a "working fireplace"?: A: It is confusing. The problem is the building codes and the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association). There is no code for a fireplace without a chimney. Therefore the vent-free gas logs must be put into a vented fireplace, but you can close the damper. No one is willing to go out on a limb and say that 2", 4", or even 20" of masonry over the top of the fireplace is safe. How long would a fire have to be going before heat would transmit, a day, week, month, etc. The AGA (American Gas Association) and building codes allow a tested and approved pre-fab firebox to be used, hence the box that can slide back into a wood wall.
Q: I was considering a gas log for one of my fireplaces and noticed that they have vent-free models. How well do these work? To me initially, they seemed kind of dangerous, but then I thought that gas stoves and ovens work without a vent. Is there a moisture problem? How is the look compared to a vented model? Is the amount of heat given off really that great? Can you run the ventless with the flue open at all? Maybe to take some of the spent air out?: A: Vent free gas logs put out a tremendous amount of heat, up to 40,000 BTUs into the room. The safety factor has been addressed by adding an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Device), all sets on the market have AGA (American Gas Association) approvals. Moisture can be a problem if you already have a moisture problem. If you currently have moisture on the inside of you windows, then you may need a de-humidifier. Vent Free gas logs put out up to one quart of water per hour. The average house has 5 gallons of water in the air at all times. Looks, a vented gas log looks much better, but does not have the heating capability. There is a trade off to looks verses heat. Heating - yes it is that great with vent free. 40,000 BTUs is a lot of heat. Yes, we do recommend opening the damper when you want to see the fire and not have all the heat. The damper can be left open just a little and your get most of the heat into the room and let most of the moisture out of the house. Then, when it is very cold or in a power outage, close the damper entirely for maximum heat.
Q: I need to find several sets of logs that will fit in the fireplaces in my house. The house is 106 years old and three of the fireplaces are the old coal burning ones that are approximately 12 inches wide and 5 inches deep. I am looking for unvented gas logs. I am looking for something to give a little extra heat. The chimneys are not really usable that is why I want unvented logs.: A: The shallowest vent free I know of is Peterson's G8 at 9 1/2". Both vented and vent free gas logs require a working wood burning fireplace. Your fireplace would have to be brought up to working condition for use with either style of gas logs.

Gas logs - Vented

Q: Do vented gas logs throw enough heat to heat a room 15X15? Does anyone know if the vented gas logs produce any more heat than a DuraFlame log?: A: Vented gas logs are tested to the American Gas Association Decorative Gas Standard. This means that no heat outputs may be used in advertising or brochures. Basically, vented gas logs produce the same amount of heat as the same fireplace does with a wood fire. If your fireplace normally produces a lot of heat, you will be pleased with the heat of gas logs. If, on the other hand, you fireplace puts out no heat with wood, you will also get no heat from gas logs. You should purchase vented gas logs as a decorative appliance. While they work well in an emergency situations, they are not an economical way of zone heating.
Q: I had gas logs installed in my fireplace about 5 years ago. Is it necessary to have the fireplace cleaned when you have gas logs. Do they create Creosote, or some other buildup that should be cleaned out every so often.: A: Your fireplace should have been cleaned when the gas logs were installed. Gas does not produce creosote. We do not know about real long term soot buildup with gas logs. But our retail stores shows no appreciable buildup with daily use after 18 years.
Q: How much gas do vented gas logs use?: A: The gas usage varies by set size. A 24" vented set on natural gas consumes 90,000 BTUs
Q: Can vented logs be used for emergency heat?: A: Yes, they are a good source of emergency heat. It is not economical to try to use them for zone heating. However, in an emergency situation, the cost per hour is not as important.
Q: Is the Safety Pilot Kit (SPK) worth purchasing?: A: A safety pilot has a standing pilot. It is lit all the time. You do not need to match light. If the valve is turned on, it automatically lights the log set. You can not turn the valve on and let raw gas into the room. If you go with a manual valve. You turn on the valve and strike a match to light, like a gas grill. It is possible for the valve to be turned on without igniting the log set causing raw gas to come into the house. Many areas require a safety pilot on natural gas. It is required on propane gas nationwide.
Q: I've just purchased a 1904 home with 7 coal burning fireplaces. Is it possible to convert these to gas logs? From what I understand, wood is out of the question as the firebox is too small. All of the fireplaces are very decorative, and I wouldn't want to do any damage in the conversion.: A: If your fireplaces are safe to burn wood or coal, then gas logs can be added if you have the required depth.

Gas Stoves

Q: Does anyone have any experience with freestanding gas stoves that look similar to wood or pellet stoves? I have an old wood stove I am not using. It is old and I have been told it is not safe anymore. I do not want to put another wood stove in as my wife has no experience with a wood stove or fireplace and I don't feel comfortable with a wood stove. I would like to put in a freestanding natural gas stove in its place. Do they work well?: A: Yes. But some are tested to the "Decorative Heater Standard". These cannot show a heat output in advertising or written paperwork. Stay away from these unless decoration is what you are looking for. Others are tested to the "Gas Heater Standard" and show BTU input and output. Use the output figure to compare appliances.
Q: Are there any surprises in installing or running these stoves?: A: It is straight forward. But in my opinion, it is not a do it yourself project. Gas lines should be installed only by a licensed gas contractor.

Fireplaces - General

Q: I just moved into a new house which has a fireplace. I decided for the my first real fire I would simply purchase a DuraFlame log. It was simple to light up and the fire lasted about 2.5 hours. Now my question - what are some of the pros and cons of using these type of "logs"?: A: Some prefab fireplace manufacturers do not allow this type of log to be burned in their fireplace. Their concerns are: (1) The waxes that hold the logs together could run into the bottom (low heat area) of the fireplace and ignite, possibly causing a house fire. (2) If they are touched during burning, they turn into sawdust, creating a lot more heat than the fireplace was designed to take. (3) that someone will use more than one log. I recommend using them only in 3" sections to start a real log fire.
Q: Having gone through one week without heat, I now want to get a backup heating source. I want to get either a gas stove or fireplace. I prefer the looks of the fireplace but I don't know if there is one that would give enough heat in a power outage. Anyone have a gas fireplace that gives good heat without power? Also I am not sure of the difference between Direct Vent and Vent Free. Are there any advantages to either one?: A: Direct vent uses a horizontal pipe through the wall. It is actually two pipes (one inside the other), the flue gasses go out the inside and combustion air goes through the outer pipe. Vent free is exactly what it says, no vent. Advantage of direct vent: better looking flame. Glass doors standard. Disadvantage: having to put hole through wall. 70% +- efficient. Advantage of vent free: more heat. 99.9% efficient. No hole to cut in wall. Disadvantage: small amount of combustion odor, water is produced (can be advantage in dry area or disadvantage if already have moisture problems). Flame not as good looking.
Q: I have a prefab fireplace in my house and I'm trying to get a wood stove insert installed. But the fireplace seems really small, and even the smallest of the inserts might not fit, plus there is a warning in the prefab fireplace instructions saying "Do not install a fireplace insert in the Zero Clearance Fireplace" Is there any real reason that a wood insert can't be installed in this fireplace, or is this warning just legal mumbo jumbo to keep some lawyer in a job? One installer guy suggested taking a saws-all to the zero-clearance firebox (its just heavy-duty sheet metal after all) to make for easier installation of the wood stove.: A: The manufacturer said not to do it. The bottom of the firebox will not hold the weight of the stove. The chimney is designed to run cool for fire safety and a lot of air delusion going into the firebox. Glass doors, other than those designed by the manufacturer are not even allowed. A wood stove in a cool chimney produces a lot of creosote causing chimney fires. The UL testing temperature for the chimney is 1700 degrees F. and a wood stove is tested to 2100 degrees F. This is something that should not be done. If you want a wood stove, put in a wood stove, but not in the fireplace. I have seen over five house fires due to cutting of prefab fireboxes. This is how they cool. Cut off you cooling, you might as well be building a fire on your floor. You are on dangerous ground here. Please do not do it.
Q: I have been told that some brick needed re-pointing. But as I have no experience with masonry, at this point I am wondering what re-pointing is?: A: Re-pointing, or tuck-pointing is the process of digging out old sandy or deteriorating mortar. Cleaning the void left. Then replacing with new mortar. The tool of choice to re-point looks a lot like a cake decorating bag. It is a funnel shaped bag that the mortar is put in, as the bag is squeezed, the mortar comes out the small end and into the open mortar joint.
Q: I am trying to solve an intense odor problem with our fireplace when it is not in use. I assume this is caused by a back draft of cold air entering the house, but have not yet found a solution. The fireplace works fine while having a fire, but creates a very strong odor throughout the house after it cools down. We have had the chimney professionally cleaned. The damper would not close properly (it left about a two inch gap), so the sweep installed a top mounted damper. I have tried chimney deodorizers, but they don't seem to help much. Placing an electric hepa type air cleaner in the fireplace, and running it with the glass doors shut, pretty much eliminates the problem, but is not very visually pleasing.: A: Your problem is water. It is behind the back wall of the fireplace. The problem should be corrected as long as damper is closed when raining. This is what to do. You will get dirty, prepare for it. Reach through the damper and to the back. Now reach down 12" to 18". You are going to think you need another joint between your wrist and elbow, but it will fit! You should feel moist ashes and maybe even water. Now get a shop vac in there with your arm and vacuum everything out. The best position to get arm in is with you sideways in firebox, looking at side wall, and you completely inside firebox so your head is next to damper. A side note, your chimney sweep should have done this as part of his cleaning. Put heater back in chimney for a little while to take care of any let over moisture and remember to close the top sealing damper when finished and after every fire.
Q: I am curious if there is anyway to stop an odor problem from my fireplace. I started burning wood in my fireplace and the odor in the house the days following is quite strong. I assume part of the problem is that the house has a forced hot air heating system so it needs to draw air from within the house. This seems to create a downdraft through the fireplace even though the damper is closed. I have glass doors but they do not seal. Is there anything that I can do to reduce/eliminate the problem.: A: A top sealing fireplace damper would help. But, if your HVAC system needs air, it will get it. After you "fix" the fireplace, the downdraft could come down the hot water heater chimney causing carbon monoxide poisoning. In my opinion, your answer is in a "balanced system". Contact a HVAC person about adding outside make up air to your furnace. Just 10% outside air will slightly pressurize the dwelling. This will make the fireplace work properly. Air also would not be trying to come in around windows and doors. Depending on the size of your city, it may even be a category in your yellow pages. I am making the assumption that your fireplace is not marginally smoking, thereby creating the smell.
Q: This sounds familiar, I have the same problem. It seems that it happens after a rainfall, and then seems to go away. If I don't light another fire, the smell is gone. It seems like some kind of residue builds up in the chimney, and the rain "activates" it. Apparently, the down draft (cold air sinking) brings the smell into the house. The damper isn't exactly an airtight seal - though I wish it were. I have a cap on the chimney, so water doesn't come in straight down, though I'm sure some blows in from the side screens.: A: A top sealing fireplace damper would keep all the water out and it does have a gasket seal. They are easy to install and relatively inexpensive. They are not a "cure all" for smells though. Call us for pricing at 334-749-3559.
Q: Is mortar repair in a fireplace a DIY project? The back corner seams of the firebox have a separation of about 1/8". I'd like to chisel away at the old mortar to clean it up then apply a new bead of appropriately rated fireplace mortar material.: A: It is easy. Rutland makes a fireplace mortar in a caulking tube. The part numbers are 63 (black), 63B (Buff), 63G (gray). Just wet the area with a spray bottle with water in it, this is to improve adhesion by reducing dust. First fire should be small to cure the new mortar. It withstands 3,000 degrees F. If you can not find this product locally, let me know and I'll sell it to you.
Q: I am interested in getting more heat out of a fireplace. Mine is a wood burner, without glass doors. I have been trying to find a grate that is made out of hollow tubes, but I haven't been able to. (They look like the letter U on it's side). Are they still made?: A: I know what you are referring to but have not seen one in years. Glass doors will help due to stopping the heat loss when you do not have a fire. It will slow down the air going out of the house when you do have a fire. However, the fireplace will feel like it does not put out as much heat (right up next to it) because of the glass slowing down the radiant heat of the fire. If you are wanting serious heat from your fireplace and want to stay with wood, look at a wood burning fireplace insert. If you are willing to change to gas, a vent free gas log set will allow you to close your damper and get up to 40,000 BTU's of heat out into the room.
Q: How tall should my chimney be above the roof?: A: Two feet above any point within ten feet, with a three foot minimum, penetration. To find out how tall it should be. Take a level and measure the roof pitch. It is the amount the roof drops per foot. Example. A 2' level shows a drop of 10". Divide by 2 for the length of the level equals a 5 on 12 roof pitch (or 5" drop to the foot). Now to figure the correct chimney height. ??? roof pitch times 10 plus 24 equals chimney height. Staying with the same 5 on 12 example. 5 times 10 equals 50 plus 24 equals 74 inches above the roof required.
Q: I just bought a house that has the exhaust from gas furnace and fireplace going up the same flue. Can the fireplace and gas furnace be on the same flue?: A: Wood smoke and gas fumes cannot run up the same flue according to both the NFPA211 (National Fire Protection Association) and the SBCC (Southern Building Code Congress). I believe other codes are also the same. But, more than likely you have multiple flues in the same chimney.
Q: Would you know if it's OK to also use wood in a gas burning fireplace? Would the ashes from the burned wood get into the holes where gas comes out and eventually cause damage?: A: No, to build a wood fire in a fireplace designed for use only with gas would be a fire hazard. If it is a wood burning fireplace with gas logs installed, then it could be converted back. Look inside the unit for a manufacturers name and model number. Until you know what you have, do not build a wood fire in the fireplace.
Q: I want to install a prefab chimney for a new wood stove. How long does a good prefab chimney last?: A: Prefab chimneys do not have to be replaced if maintained properly. Clean your chimney regularly. The DuraVent Line we carry is warranted for 25 years.
Q: Do you recommend a fan blower in a circulating fireplace to force air from the bottom, around the unit and out the top vents?: A: A blower is very easy to add if the firebox was wired when the unit was installed. If you do not know, remove the bottom grill and look for a plug (a normal wall outlet type but with only one plug). If there, plug something in to be sure to is "live". If you do not have it pre wired, I would not suggest adding it. If heat is your prime objective, I would add a set of vent free gas logs or, better yet, a gas log insert. Our gas log inserts can heat up to 1500 sq. feet.
Q: What do I measure to choose which chimney cap I need and how does it attach to flue? I have a double flue similar to the big cap picture shown and cannot figure out how you remove cap for flue cleaning.: A: Since you have 2 flues, if there is 8" between them, you can use two caps. If not, a cap like the "Big Top" should be used. If you can use two, measure the outside of each clay flue liner. If the "Big Top" is appropriate, measure the outside of both flue liners. The individual caps are a friction fit (using spring steel legs) and are removed by pulling straight up. If the clay flue liner sticks up 2", the legs are not needed and the screw tab on the corners of the cap work fine. If you go with the "Big Top" the bottom of the cap is anchored to the chimney with the hardware provided. To clean the top of the cap only is removed. Caps can be purchased at our retail store or call us at 334-749-3559.
Q: We have just discovered the hard way that our county building codes prohibit propane fueled log lighters. Why is that?: A: Many places in the country do allow them. The reason some areas do not is that all indoor propane gas appliances are required to have a pilot light. You cannot have a pilot light inside the firebox on a wood fire. So it is a catch 22. I have concerns concerning L.P. (propane) gas log lighters for wood fires. L.P. gas is heavier than air. If ashes buildup over the lighter and you hold a match over the ashes, it is possible for the L.P. gas to run out of the fireplace and to the floor (much the same as a glass of water would). By the time the L.P. gas fills the area to the height of the match. A very dangerous situation could occur. Without the ash covering the burner, the risk is greatly reduced.
Q: I noticed a product made by Rutland that claims to clean your fireplace and chimney of creosote when sprinkled on top of a fire. My father-in-law says just throw salt on my fire to do the same thing. Has anyone tried either? Do they work?: A: Salt does work, but is corrosive to all metal parts like the damper and rain cap, or the whole thing if prefab. Do not use salt. Rutland is a good cleaner. But, it is no substitute for chimney cleaning. It's like swishing tooth paste around in your mouth and not using a brush!! The Rutland cleaner is available at our retail store.
Q: How do I find out what kind of pre-fab fireplace I have?: A: Look on the inside of the firebox, normally on the right side above the side brick or metal panel close to the front. Another place some manufacturers put it is the top of the screen rail above the mesh screen. You are looking for a metal plate about the size of a business card. It will be pop riveted to the side of the firebox. It will have the manufacturers name, model number, serial number, and UL approval number. The UL approval number is of no use in finding out what you have, it is a number that starts with a single letter followed by 6 or 7 numbers.
Q: I'm a city girl that just brought my 1st home which includes a beautiful fireplace. The seller didn't use the fireplace for many years. I know that I will have to have it inspected and cleaned before using it but I don't even know how or what to do for the fireplace. The fireplace has a glass door. How safe is it to burn wood?: A: Get a certified chimney sweep to come to your house and do an inspection. They will let you know if your fireplace is safe to use with wood or gas. They will let you know if there is anything not satisfactory or not to code about your fireplace. Do not build a fire until you have it inspected. I was a chimney sweep for six years (1980-1986). I saw many odd things with fireplaces, especially unused ones. Get it checked out before use.
Q: A question. My fireplace only smokes during startup. I feel cold air coming down the flue.: A: You may simply need to get the flue warmed up before lighting the fire. Take four pieces of newspaper. Lay them on the floor offsetting the corners to make an 16 pointed "star". Roll it up into a funnel shape. Tightly twist the small end closed. This is your handle. Hold inside the firebox and light a "star point". Hold big lit end down for 3 to 5 seconds until fire in funnel gets going good. Turn and point big, flaming end toward damper. You will be able to hear the draft change directions. The air rushing out the chimney will pull the flames creating a rushing, jet engine kind of sound. Be careful not to get burned.
Q: I just found that there is no insulation in the walls around my fireplace. From in the attic I can see all the way down to the firebox. Is it safe to blow in insulation to fill around the firebox and up the wall? Does it take a special kind due to the heat? We have gas logs.: A: Most prefab fireplaces cool the pipe by allowing air to go into the pipe right at the top of the firebox. To block that would create a fire hazard even with gas logs. Insulating the room side of the chase is a good idea. Fiberglass bats should be used. I fire escape ladder will give you easy access down to the firebox. The firebox is not real stable on the top. You can put your weight on it if done on the edges. Do not step on the top close to the pipe. This insulation may not get within two inches of the pipe.

Fireplaces - Smoking

Q: I need some advice. My downstairs fireplace is practically unusable due to smoking back into the room. I need help.: A: For starters. A few questions to you so I may be better prepared to assist.
1. Do you live on a lake or bluff?: A: No, I'm near the bottom of a hill, 2nd house up from the bottom. There are 4 houses up the hill above me, so this hill is about 150 yards long. conclusion: Answer does not contribute to problem.
2. How "air tight" is your house, I.E.: storm windows and doors, extra insulation, etc.?: A: House has storm windows and doors, and we had attic insulation added about 5 years ago. conclusion: Answer suggests house need outside air source for fireplace.
3. Do you have automatic attic ventilation, I.E.: manual wind turbines, thermostat electric turbines?: A: Yes, we have two manual turbines mounted on the roof for attic vents. conclusion: Answer contributes to negative pressure problem.
4. Was the difference in inside and outside temperatures at least 25 degrees F.?: A: On this particular day, no. The temp difference was maybe 15 degrees F., but it was damp, I.E., humid outside. conclusion: You need a 25 degree F. difference for good draft.
5. Do you have an outside air source for the fireplace?: A: No. conclusion: An outside air kit will be required for your fireplace to solve your problem.
6. Does opening a window in the same room help the smoking?: A: Yes, it seems to, we have done that in the past. I've been surprised at the draw through the crack in the window. conclusion: Verifies outside air kit is needed.
7. Is the chimney two feet above any point within ten feet of it?: A: Yes, approximately three feet above the pitch of the roof. conclusion: Answer does not contribute to problem.
8. Is the square inches of the fireplace opening less than ten times the flue outlet?: A: I haven't measured the flue outlet on the roof yet, but I doubt it. The fireplace opening is 28" H X 30"W X 19" Deep. I believe the tile at the top of the flue is approx. 12"X8". conclusion: Flue may not be large enough for fireplace. 28 x 30 = 840. The inside size of a 8 x 12 is 7 x 11. 7 x 11 = 77. 77 x 10 = 770 (the largest fireplace should be). If opening lowered to 25.5 it should work. 25.5 x 30 = 765. A smoke guard may cure this problem. They are available at our retail store. Although, it is always best to have us inspect your chimney. Q: 9. Is your damper opening all the way? A: Yes, I always verify that with a flashlight before I start a fire. conclusion: Answer does not contribute to problem.
10. Does it smoke when the wind blows in one direction only?: A: I'm sorry, this I don't know. I need to become more sophisticated in my observations when it happens. I need to devise a wind sock & watch it. conclusion: Based on other answers, not needed. CONCLUSION: Bottom line. Add outside air to the fireplace and lower opening 2-1/2? or, better yet call us for an inspection
Q: I have a smoking fireplace. Can I install glass doors to solve the problem?: A: No, you must correct your fireplace problem, then install glass doors if you so desire.
Q: We have a fireplace on the ground level and one below ground level. My problem is that most of the time some smoke comes in though fireplace below ground when I use the one on the ground floor.: A: You have a house that is well insulated (i.e.: extra insulation, storm windows & doors, etc.). Your fireplace uses room air to carry the smoke out. It uses approximately 300 CFM (cubic feet per minute). This air has to come from somewhere. The point of least resistance at this time is the other fireplace. Open a window in the room, where the fire is, about 1-2 inches. This should solve your problem. If opening a window is not practical, then you must add an outside air kit on the fireplace. The only other explanation is a hole between the two fireplaces, this is not normally the case and it a lot harder to fix. Call us for an inspection.
Q: My fireplace smokes. There is no blockage. The chimney is higher than the ridge line on my roof. I called my builder; he said open a window a smidgen. I did, it worked, but if I build a fire for warmth and have to open a window for suction, what's the point?: A: Your house is starved for air. Your solution is to get outside air to the fireplace.
Q: I have the same question but, I have an older house which is not air tight, and opening a window does not help the smoke situation. Any ideas?: A: I don't feel you have the same problem even though you have the same symptoms. A smoking fireplace. The flue should be 1/10 the fireplace opening (firebox width times firebox height divided by 10 should be a less than the size of the flue liner width times height). If you are out of spec. Lower the opening of the firebox. This is how to test. Cut tin foil 5" wider than the firebox opening. Fold aluminum foil lengthwise in 1" increments. Tape it over the firebox opening. Build a fire. Continue to unroll the aluminum foil an inch at a time until the smoking problem its cured. If less than 8", I have a spring loaded product called a smoke guard that will solve your problem. It is available is 4", 6", and 8" heights and fits fireplaces from 28" to 48" wide. The fireplace exhaust should not be near any trees. Trim as necessary. The height of the chimney should be 2 feet above any point within 10 feet. This means if you are within 10 feet of the ridge, you must be 2 feet above it. The firebox could be built wrong. Call us for an inspection.

Fireplaces - Leaking

Q: My chimney is leaking water from the roof. I cannot find where it is coming in from.: A: First, get a tarp. Wrap the entire top of the chimney. Take garden hose to the roof. Need two people. One waters the chimney one section at a time at the roof level around the flashing (part you left uncovered). The second person goes into the attic or room, wherever you are seeing the water. Shorten up on the tarp and continue to wet from bottom to top until leak is found. Another way, if water can get in, air can get out, remove cap, seal top of flue outlet with damp blanket, open damper (Very important), seal front of fireplace with clear polyethylene all but one lower corner. Get fireworks type smoke bomb. light roll into firebox through corner left open, tape down corner, Your chimney is now full of smoke. Now look for holes in chimney where smoke is coming out and call us for necessary repairs.
Q: A chimney sweep recommended "sealing" the chimney. Anyone know whether this is a good idea for me to have done, or just a good idea for the sweep to do?: A: If you decide to seal your chimney, make sure the proper product is used. I recommend "Chimney Saver" by Homesaver. This product allows one way pass through. In other words, water can not get into the chimney, but any water inside and cross the barrier to the outside. Most chimney sweeps offer a ten year warranty in this. It is more important as you go north. If water gets inside the chimney bricks and mortar joints, it causes spalling. This is where the freezing/thawing action breaks off the front 1/4" to 1/2" of the brick. Call us for pricing.

Fireplaces - Cold Air Infiltration

Q: My new home has a Heatilator fireplace in a two story exterior chase off of a family room with a cathedral ceiling. When it is cool outside, I feel a draft coming from the bottom vents on the fireplace. This draft occurs even when the damper to the flue is closed, the damper to fresh air kit is closed, the glass doors are closed and there is no breeze outside. The draft is significant enough on cold days to lower the temperature for several feet around the fireplace by a few degrees. The builder tells me that the chase is insulated with a fire stop at the roof line. Could the cold air be coming in from the outer flue? If so, should I have a chimney air kit to be installed to let this cold air out? What else should I check?: A: You may have an outside air kit not sealing. Look outside the chase for a thing that looks like a dryer vent. Seal it up temporarily to see if it solves it, if so look into why the outside air damper is not sealing. Second, and more likely, the builder did not insulate the three outside walls of the chase. If he sealed the front (behind the profile), that will hold the cold inside the chase, but many builder model fireboxes are themselves not insulated. So, no insulation on back wall of chase, cold goes into chase and through the sheet metal fireplace and out the vents. This is the most likely problem. The solution is to remove the chase cap and firestop and insulate the back wall and two side walls of the chase to the firestop.
Q: I have a very drafty fireplace and would like to do a better job of sealing it from the outside when it's not in use.: A: A top sealing fireplace damper is the solution to your problem. They are inexpensive and will save you $100.00 per year on utility bills.
Q: The chase our fireplace is in is not insulated. Hence, the fireplace is a great source of cold air infiltration. What can I do?: A: Silicone between the firebox and the profile (brick, marble, etc.). The pipes cool by hot air exiting out the roof between the walls of the pipe. Cold air enters the chase from the rain cap area and falls to the bottom of the chase. The process continues in this fashion. For this reason, the chase is the same temperature as the outside or just a little warmer. The chase can be insulated, but do not put insulation in the chase in a fashion that will block the cooling of the firebox.

Fireplaces - Outside Air

Q: I recently bought a house with a masonry fireplace. On the floor of the fireplace is an ash dump. Can it also be used as an air vent to improve the fireplace draft?: A: Yes it can be used for that purpose. A couple of things to remember though. Install a mesh screen over the clean out door (the one on the outside of the house). Otherwise critters have an easy access into your home. Close both doors when fireplace is not in use to keep the cold air outside. Also you can adjust the flap on the ash dump (the door in the bottom of the firebox) to regulate the amount of air you let in.
Q: I have a close to air tight house, Do I need air for the fireplace? I have glass doors on the fireplace now. What do I need to do to make maximum use of heat out of a fire?: A: Newer homes are built with extreme energy conservation in mind. They put extra insulation in the attic and walls, use double or triple pane windows, etc. For this reason the "newer" houses don't breathe that well. A fireplace takes air out of the house and sends it the outside along with the bi-products of combustion (smoke). If the house does not have sufficient air leaks, the fireplace would smoke back into the room. Using "outside air" kits allows the fireplace to use air from the outside rather than the air you have already heated. Now, as far as what you can do. You already have a glass door. It lowers the amount of air needed. Adding an outside air kit to the fireplace will make the rest of the house warmer. The fireplace is going to use air from the easiest source. It is easier to get the air from the outside air kit than to suck it from around windows and doors. The sucking from windows and doors is what makes the other side of the room (away from the fireplace) colder than other areas of the house.
Q: Where can I purchase an outside air kit?: A: If a prefab fireplace, you will need to obtain the model # and manufacturer. If you have a masonry fireplace, call and schedule an inspection.

Fireplaces - Glass Doors

Q: I have a fireplace without glass doors. It currently has a screen in front that is not attached to the fireplace. It is a free standing screen. I would be looking for a door/screen kit to mount onto the fireplace. Any ideas or manufactures that sell them.: A: I sell the Design Specialties line of glass doors. You need to know if you have a prefab or masonry fireplace. Different doors go on the prefabs due to the way they cool. A masonry door on a prefab fireplace can be a fire hazard.
Q: Are you ever supposed to close the glass doors while a fire is burning? How does this effect general heating?: A: Never close the glass doors on a "loud roaring fire". Closing the doors lowers the radiant heat of the fireplace. Therefore the fire will not seem as hot right at the hearth. However, the other side of the room should feel warmer due to the air not crossing the room to go out the chimney.
Q: Do glass doors make the fireplace produce additional heat?: A: No. A glass door will keep the opposite side of the room warmer because the doors slow down the air being sent out the chimney. Glass door make the fireplace "feel" cooler right next to it because the glass blocks some of the radiant heat. A glass doors main "plus" is safety. You can leave the room or go to bed before the fire is completely out without the fear of a spark popping out into the room. So, only buy the door if safety is your main issue, not additional heat.
Q: We're considering installing glass doors on our fireplace to stop the cold drafts that develop whenever we have a fire going. It seems like a fairly simple task. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.: A: Fireplace glass doors usually install with just a screwdriver and pliers or adjustable wrench. Unless you have a very rough rock fireplace, it is an easy do it yourself project.
Q: How do you reach the inside of the glass doors for cleaning, since they fold together when open?: A: At the hinge at both top and bottom is a piece of spring steel. Place your finger on the bottom piece of spring steel (you will have to reach around to the inside of the "V" the doors make). Hold this piece down while raising up on the door and sliding the bottom toward the center and remove the doors from the frame.
Q: My air-tight wood stove glass gets all covered in soot. It gets so bad that I can't see the flame! Is there any way to have a fire without soiling the window?: A: Some older wood stoves had very poor, if any, air wash for the glass. Newer wood stove glass stays mostly clean. Here are a few tips. Build a hot fire, not the overnight smoldering fire. Add more air to your fire. Keep wood close to the glass. If possible stack wood front to back rather than side to side for better air flow. Clean glass frequently. The easiest way to clean the glass is (with stove cold) use a damp rag dipped into the ashes and wipe the glass.
Q: Do the glass doors on my fireplace have to be closed when the outside air kit is open, or can they be left open like a more traditional fireplace?: A: Almost everyone leaves the glass doors open during use, and with the outside air kit open. The draft of the fireplace will assure none of the cold air from the intake will get out into the room. But, it must be closed when a there is no fire or cold air will spill into the room. This is due to there not being a lot of draft to pull it out of the chimney.
Q: What can I use to clean the glass & brass doors in front of my fireplace?: A: The glass can easily be cleaned when cold by dampening a rag or good paper towel and dipping it into the ashes from the fireplace. Clean the glass. Rinse with water. You must be careful when cleaning the brass. Most good quality glass doors have a lacquer coating over the brass so it does not require polishing. To polish with metal polish would ruin the door. A soap - water solution it all that is recommended.

Chimneys - Pre-Fab

Q: I have a wood stove with a prefab chimney that runs straight up, (no bends). My brothers have run regular stove pipe (single wall) straight through to the top leaving a 1" gap all around. My question is: How safe is this? I've heard that pre fab chimneys rust out after a few years.: A: Your brother has run single wall stove pipe out of his house. He is in for a house fire. The pipe requires 18" clearance to wood and can be used indoors only. Warn him before disaster strikes. Prefab chimneys do not have a problem with rusting out. The brand we carry, DuraVent has a 25 year warranty. Q: The house we're planning to build will have an unfinished, unheated walk-out basement. My husband would like to have the option of installing a small wood stove in the future to make the space more comfortable during our short heating season (east-central Alabama). Is it possible to vent such a stove (safely) by running the vent pipe through a hole in the brick wall? The house will be brick veneer and will have a wood-burning fireplace on the main floor. The guy drawing our plans says venting the stove through a separate flue in the fireplace chimney is easy, but he'll have to make the chimney 2 feet wider to accommodate the stove flue (it's already 6 feet wide). A: Yes. A chimney (metal class "A" or brick) is required. You cannot run single wall stove pipe on the outside of your house. The wood stove flue, if 6" inside diameter is 10" outside diameter. If a larger stove that requires 8" inside diameter, the outside diameter would be 12". Adding two feet is not necessary. The pipe only requires 2" clearance to combustibles. Since one side would be the fireplace box (non combustible). Then only 12" would be needed if 6" or 14" if 8". Be sure to follow the wood stove and chimney manufacturers instructions.
Q: I am interested in installing the DuraVent through-the-wall kit for a wood stove on my two story home. Since I have to run the chimney on the outside of the house will there be a problem with the chimney getting too cold and thereby not drafting properly? Does a DuraVent chimney need to be enclosed and insulated for the wood stove to work properly?: A: The DuraVent chimney is designed to be installed on the outside of a house without a chase. In other words, it does not need to be enclosed or insulated.

Gas Heaters - Vent Free

Q: Is a vent free heater safe to use in a garage?: A: No, it is not recommended. Flammable liquids as well as carbon monoxide are often present in garages. Carbon monoxide is a flammable gas
Q: What are the pros and cons of radiant verses blue flame vent free gas heaters?: A: Plaque (radiant) heater heats like the sun, it heats objects in the room. Better if area is poorly insulated like a garage. Blue flame heats the air in the room, A good room heater when used with a thermostat.
Q: Are vent free gas heaters allowed in all areas.: A: No. Some states like California do not allow them. Check with your local building code official for the codes in your area.
Q: I rent an apartment in northern New Jersey. Last week, my landlady installed an "unvented gas heater" to my unit and I'm wondering if this thing is safe. The instruction manual says that the heater is not to be used in bedrooms, automobiles, trailers, RVs or mobile homes, with some exceptions. I used the heater for only a few days and stopped using it because of fear of CO exposure. The blue flame which lights the heater is designed to automatically turn off when there isn't enough oxygen. I've had a person from the Fire Department take a look at the heater and, surprisingly, he says that heaters like this are legal and frequently found in newly-constructed apartments and condos. Is this really the case? Should any apartment tenant accept this kind of heater from their landlords? My landlord removed an old, dilapidated vented gas heater from my unit to install this heater.: A: It comes standard with an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Device). There has not been a single documented fatality from a gas heater with an ODS due to ODS failure. The ODS has been used in Europe since the 1960's. They are not and should not be used in "sleeping quarters". The unit you have has a higher BTU output than what is allowed in bedrooms. Vent free heaters are not allowed as "primary" heating units. They are for supplemental heating only. They are great for cool areas and emergency heat. You rented your apartment with a vented gas heater. I suggest you ask your "landlady" to replace it with a equivalent vented heater as was the case when you rented the unit.

Wood Stoves

Q: I have a fireplace insert. The doors came with a fireproof rope-type insulating seal. the rope is coming loose. What kind of glue should I use.: A: You should use a gasket cement made especially for this purpose. Rutland part number 77E is one of the best.
Q: We have painted our wood stove with some "stove paint" to make it look nice again, and now when it gets above 200 degrees a terrible chemical smell emanates from it. I have had about 8 fires in this stove getting up to about 500 degrees, and the smell hasn't ceased.: A: The paint will continue to "cure" as you reach higher temperatures on your stove. I recommend this. Clean your chimney before building larger fires if it has not been done recently. Open windows (nice day I hope!). Build hot fire. Cure the paint. The paint can go to a temperature of 1200 degrees.
Q: During a new home inspection, the inspector told me that fireplaces are not made to handle the heat an insert produces and that it damages your fireplace. Is this true?: A: If your fireplace is masonry (bricks), then your insert should work in it just fine as is. If your fireplace is pre-fab (metal), then your fireplace insert may not be safe. Look on the inside of the firebox (usually on the side above the side brick and close to the front) for the fireplace manufacturer and serial number. Then call the manufacturer of the fireplace insert and see if it is approved in your model of fireplace.
Q: I have a fireplace insert in my fireplace. The problem is that even with the flue closed, the insert still allows some drafts to come through in various places, making the room cold. Any suggestions on how to avoid these drafts?: A: The National Fire Protection Association mandates that inserts be directly connected to the flue liner. This requirement solves many problems (odors, drafts, creosote build-up) associated with improperly installed inserts. Call us for an inspection.
Q: I plan to have on the first floor a small airtight wood stove and in the basement a larger non-airtight unit in the same chimney. Is this possible?: A: Two chimneys would be needed. They can run up the same brickwork, but must have two different flues (holes).
Q: I want to install a wood stove as close to a wall as possible. Where do I find information as to how I should modify the wall to do this? And what sources of heat shield materials would you recommend?: A: Check the installation manual of the stove you wish to install. The minimum clearances are different for each stove and depends on the safety testing. You can usually lower the clearances usually by adding a stove board to your wall. Call us for an inspection, our NFI certified professionals are true experts.
Q: I have a prefab fireplace in the living room. I want to remove it, open up an alcove into the chase where it was and put in a freestanding wood stove. Space will be tight but sufficient. What can I use to "fireproof" the walls and ceiling of the chase? I do not suspect heavy drywall is enough. Most brick would physically be too bulky and esthetically would overwhelm the room.: A: You are correct, drywall will not do. Look into Wonder Board by Durock. It is normally used behind ceramic tile in bathrooms, but has UL approval for use to reduce clearances behind wood stoves. Be sure to follow the stove manufacturers instructions regarding alcoves. If not open all the way to the ceiling, ventilation in the upper area will probably be needed to keep the temperatures down. If the stove manufacturer does not address alcoves, either pick another or contact their technical support for addendum instructions. Do not do this without proper precautions against a house fire. Again, consider an inspection form a CSIA certified sweep or a NFI certified wood technician (like ours).
Q: Does anyone know the specs on how far from the wall, etc. for free-standing wood stoves?: A: The code for an unlisted wood stove is 36" to the sides and rear of the stove. Almost every stove manufactured today has less clearances, some down to 3". This would depend on the testing lab results and is required to be on a metal plate attached to the stove, usually on the rear. Your choice of stove will determine the clearances needed. Our LOPI brand wood stoves have some of the closest clearances in the industry.
Q: On our first floor is a large stone fireplace that has been sealed up, and a free standing stove installed. The previous owner used this as his primary heat source. Our problem relates to "draft control". The chimney produces a very strong draft, and even with the stove closed up as much as possible, we are unable to regulate the fire. Any suggestions?: A: Check the gasket seal on the doors. To do this, insert a dollar bill halfway in the door, close the door, pull out the bill. There should be a fair amount of resistance. Go around all sides (including the hinge side) of the doors checking this, replace the gasket if the bill does not have resistance. It culd be that the stove is an EPA exempt stove. This means that it must allow a lot of air inside the stove in order to burn cleanly. Consider an EPA compliant stove, like our Lopi. http://www.lopistoves.com
Q: I'm looking at putting a wood-burning insert in my fireplace, and my local code requires a stainless liner. My problem is the damper plate assembly between the fireplace and the flue. Is there a simple way of removing this without having to demolish the whole fireplace in the process?: A: IMO, this is not a good do-it-yourself job. With that said, the top course or two of brick need to be removed from the back wall of the firebox and back side of the damper will need to be removed in order to make room for the liner. The "trick" to it is an automotive bumper jack. Remove the brick as needed using a chisel leaving the damper above. Put jack under damper in rear center. As it is cast iron, it will break rather than bend. Now repair any damage caused by this process. Now the liner will have a hole to go through. I close by stating that I think you should have a certified chimney sweep do the installation.